Craig Y Longridge - Recently Updated Pages

Craig Y Longridge Home

ArranD — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 07:41:22 CST

Welcome to The Longridge Wiki.
Craig-Y-Longridge is around 100m of unrelenting steepness. It's where the strong come to get stronger, and the weak come to get spanked. Home to possibly the highest concentration of pumpy traverses in the country.
How to navigate this site:
The easiest way is to use the links in the side bar immediately to the left of this text.
<<<<<<< (that one!)
But as you probably only came here looking for a topo here's a link to the nearest thing we've got: a spreadsheet of all the problems. As they're all easily located by numbers painted on the rock, finding them without the aid of a photo topo shouldn't be too much of a problem. PDF version added.
Please download the spreadsheet, join the Wiki, and contribute to the grade debates on the problem pages.

What to expect:

News and Conditions

ArranD — Sun, 30 Aug 2009 10:40:17 CDT

30/08/2009
Almost completely dry today with only a bit of seepage along the thin break beneath Bend Of The Rainbow.
Also Probes did the full traverse sometime this week I've just heard.

05/08/2009
Short video of Longridge to appear on the climber website. Gives a good idea of what to expect from the place. Enjoy.
http://vimeo.com/5955069

08/06/2009
Pot Of Gold got its 5th ascent today from Jordan Buys.

I also did a couple of new links today.
Full Circle - V9ish (7c+) - This links Gaz's traverse into the end of Bend Of The Rainbow, then reverses Bend to the starting jug of Gaz's traverse.
Bend Of The Rainbow Free - V8+ish (Fr7c ish) - Pot Of Gold Start into BOTR. (Has been an aid start since ground lowered)
Bend Of The Rainbow Free into Low Life Traverse - Fr8a

By Adam Lincoln

26/12/08
Almost completely bone dry with only a couple of small spots of seepage remaining. Should be completely bone over the next few days.

22/11/2008
As most now know the fence is up and the wall above the crag has had some work done. In general the crag has been pretty wet for the last few months.

24/07/2008
Good conditions if not a tad greasy, the removal of the stone wall above seems to mean that dirt from the road side runs onto the wall with every rain causing the walls to feel extremely sandy once dry.

******Longridge closed 27+28/05/08 for work to the old wall at the top of the crag*******

22/5/08
Perfect conditions - knock a grade off anything you did today.

14/5/08
Mint conditions at the crag, so much so that Gaz Parry felt obliged to do the full traverse.

9/5/08
Crag's bone dry, but a little bit greasy. The midges are starting to make an appearance.

27/4/08
Longridge Spreadsheet added.

21/4/08
The Traverse Of The Gods Fr8b+ saw another ascent this time by Adam Jeeworth.
16/4/08
Super Sub Marine video added.

Traverses and Links

ArranD — Fri, 19 Jun 2009 16:43:08 CDT

The Traverse of the Gods
Fr8b+ ***
The big traverse: start at one end of the crag, finish at the other. Normally done L to R, uses the high break between Smeg City and Rug Thug.

Going Down
Fr 8c+ ***
Start at the Right end of the crag finish at the Left, no high break. Hard.

Halfway
Fr7c+ **
From the left hand end of the crag to the wobbly block of Pop Tart.

Middle Bit
Fr 7c **
From the wobbly block of Pop Tart to the high break above Smeg City. Essentially Mr Skin plus a bit either side.

Middle Bit +
Fr 7c+ **
Reverse Going Deaf For A Living into the above for an extra bit of pump.

End Bit
Fr 7b+(?) **
Bend Of The Rainbow to the end of the crag via Ascent Of Man and Descent Of Man.

End Bit Low
Fr 7c**
Bend of The Rainbow to the end of the crag via Long Low Life.

Long Low Life
Fr7b+ *
Link Unnatural Selection into Low Life. Slightly harder in reverse.

Start to high break.
Fr8a+ **
From the left end of the crag to the high break above Smeg City.

Middle Third
Fr8a **
Start at Central Ice Fall Direct finish at the high break above Smeg City.

Second Fifth
Fr7b *
Start at Central Ice Fall Direct finish at the wobbly block of Pop Tart.

Full Circle - V9ish (Fr 8a) - This links Gaz's traverse into the end of Bend Of The Rainbow, then reverses Bend to the starting jug of Gaz's traverse.

Bend Of The Rainbow Free - V8+ish (Fr 7c) - Pot Of Gold Start into BOTR. (Has been an aid start since ground lowered)

Bend Of The Rainbow Free into Lowlife Traverse - Fr8a

Big Marine/Bend Area

ArranD — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 06:08:54 CDT

This sector contains some of Longridge's finest: Classics such as Big Marine, Push To Prolapse, Fertile Delta, and the awesome traverse line of Bend Of The Rainbow.
This area has seen the biggest drop in ground level. Although this has opened up opportunities for a lot of new low starts, many of the existing classics have become considerably harder (impossible?) to start without jumping or some form of aid.

54 Big Marine V7
55 Renal Failure V8
56 Push To Prolapse V5
56 The Priory V8
57 Bend Of The Rainbow V5
57 Colon Power V9
57a Eat 'em And Smile V7
58 Rug Thug V3
58 Gaz's Traverse V8
59 In Excess V3
60a Fertile Delta V7
60 Porridge Gun V3
61 Anal Cave In V5
62 Scorched August V3
63 New Stone Age V2

The Priory V8

ArranD — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 06:05:06 CDT

(56) V8
FA: Probes

Start as for Push To Prolapse and climb right and up to finish as for Colon Power.

The Problems

ArranD — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 06:00:08 CDT

Because of recent excavations many problems are considerably higher than they were. A jump, bunk-up, or step ladder may be needed to reach the original standing starts (in some cases the original sit start). The grades and descriptions here refer to the original problems, the point of this Wiki is to update the current knowledge for this crag. The base level of the crag may well alter during the life of this Wiki.
Although it is possible to top out on some of the problems it is the norm to jump off (more sensible now to down-climb as much as possible) at the end of the good rock; generally a juggy break.
The numbers in red brackets refer to the red numbers painted on the rock.
V grades have been used by default, but feel free to add a Font' grade (preferably by grading the problem, not looking up a conversion).
Sit starts and eliminates should be added as a new sub-page to the original problem page, for an example see Big Marine.

Tarot Plane Area

Pump 'Til You Jump Area

Mr Skin Area

Big Marine/Bend Area

Ascent Of Man Area

The Pit Area

Traverse And Links

The Pit Area

ArranD — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 05:58:34 CDT

Beyond Ascent of Man area, and out of sight of the rest of the crag is a secluded, forgotten wall featuring the crags' original trad routes and a couple of slopey traverses.
The wall suffers from seepage and can be dirty, but it should improve with traffic.

From Here To There To You V2

Seeping With The Enemy V2

Delta Force V9

ArranD — Tue, 09 Jun 2009 03:43:40 CDT

(60a) V9, Fnt7c, UK6c.
FA: Chris Davies
Sit start to Fertile Delta starting directly beneath the pocket and cranking up on tiny crimps. An easier start is possible by starting to the left at the big jug and then climbing up for a couple of moves before crossing into the pocket using a 'rose' move, V7.

Photo: Si Panton

From Here To There To You V2

ArranD — Tue, 09 Jun 2009 03:02:28 CDT

V2, UK5c
FA: John Proud

Traverse the sloping break above Seeping With The Enemy.

Seeping With The Enemy V2

ArranD — Tue, 09 Jun 2009 03:00:21 CDT

V2, Uk5c
FA: John Proud

Traverse the thin, rounded break.

Resurrection Shuffle V0

JohnProud — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 14:56:18 CDT

(75) V0, UK5a
FA: John Proud

Shuffle rightwards from the juggy ledge on Runaway on breaks and blocks until you run out of crag.

Seven A V3

GCW — Tue, 26 May 2009 16:38:09 CDT

(21) V3, Fnt 6a, UK6a. *
FA: Steve Sharples.

Slopes and edges lead to an undercut slot and a big move to the top.
Same grade from sitting.

Going Down

ArranD — Tue, 28 Apr 2009 08:48:12 CDT

Fr8c+?
FA: Neil Carson.
The Big One without resort to the high break. Done right to left, so far only one repeat by Ian Vickers.

Fertile Delta V7

ArranD — Mon, 27 Apr 2009 04:56:37 CDT

(60a) V7, Fnt7a+, UK6c. **
FA: Mark Leach.

Originally started by jumping to big jug to the right of In Excess on Bend of the Rainbow. A dynamic low start existed off a pocket and small crimp, this has become the standing start, with Chris Davies adding a new sit start with Delta Force V9.

Cruel Country V4

ArranD — Tue, 21 Apr 2009 15:15:26 CDT

(28)V4, Fnt, UK6a*
FA:

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Pump 'Til You Jump Area

ArranD — Tue, 21 Apr 2009 15:12:42 CDT

Here the crag gains a bit more height, it also gains a chronic greasiness which is the cause of many unexpected slips. An attentive spotter is recommended.

(24) Hitting The Wall V4
(25) Babylon Blitz V0
(26) Thirty Feet Of Pain V5
(27) Haardvark V3
(28) Cruel Country V4
(29) Pump 'Til You Jump V2
(30) Twelve Dreams V6
(31) Still Raining, Still Dreaming V5
(32) Grow Wings V?
(33) Imitation Arapiles V4
(34) Going Deaf For A Living V4

Imitation Arapiles V4

ArranD — Tue, 21 Apr 2009 15:10:32 CDT

(33)V4, Fnt, UK6a
FA:

Pot of Gold V11

ArranD — Thu, 26 Mar 2009 06:55:56 CDT

Pot Of Gold

(57) V11
FA: Ryan Pasquill.

Ascent Of Man Area

ArranD — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 16:54:20 CDT

The most vertical area of Longridge is home to two excellent traverses:Ascent, and Descent Of Man, as well as a number of neglected up problems. It is now considerably more highball than previously.

64 Unknown Arete V0
64 Unnatural Selection V4
66 Missing Link V7
Chocolate Popsicle V7
67 Moschops V3
68 Ascent Of Man V2
69 Jacob's Ladder V0
69 Low Life Traverse V5
70 Spah's Daehniks V3
71 Orifice Of Faeces V7
72 Neolithic Technology V5
73 From Ape To Aardvark V3
74 Descent Of Man V1
75 Runaway V0
76 And She Was V0
77 Some Friend V0
78 Thug V0
79 Headline V0
80

Neolithic Technology V5

ArranD — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 16:52:48 CDT