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Low Life Traverse
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Low Life Traverse V8
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Oct 22 2009, 3:05 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Oct 22 2009, 3:05 PM EDT
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Have recently sealed up the break on right half of Low Life traverse (R. of Jacobs Ladder) with waterproof cement as I did years ago on the slots on my route, Mr. Skin. Very careful not to alter size of holds either positively or negatively but now feels less greasy as the clayey gunk is held back and doesn't ooze as badly after rain. Yeah, both halves feel V5ish and the whole thing feels hard V6 or easy V7. Pumpy especially for the vertically challenged!
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ArranD |
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Grades
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Traverses and Links
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Jun 19 2009, 5:44 PM EDT by
ArranD |
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Thread started: Jun 19 2009, 5:44 PM EDT
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Any comments on the grades or extra links?
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Pit traverses
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The Pit Area
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Jun 14 2009, 6:59 AM EDT by
ArranD |
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Thread started: Jun 14 2009, 4:16 AM EDT
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The lines of FHTTTY and SWTE drawn on photo are incorrect, both need to be down a break.
FHTTTY in place of SWTE, and it on faint ledge below.
Don't know how to edit the photo.
JP
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Fertile Delta 1st Ascent
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Fertile Delta V7
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Apr 27 2009, 5:57 AM EDT by
ArranD |
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Thread started: Apr 24 2009, 6:03 PM EDT
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Fertile Delta was never done as a gaston on the (Now) glue on.. It was originally done by Leach as a right hand side pull.
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ArranD |
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V8???
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Big Marine V7
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Apr 3 2009, 5:37 AM EDT by
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Thread started: May 5 2008, 8:08 AM EDT
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I see this is down as V8 in the 'Stone Circles' article in Climber. I always thought it was benchmark V7 before the ground altered. Does it need upgrading now it needs a jump to start? The easiest way to start it previously was with hands crossed on the 2 crimps (R above L), this obviously is a bit tricky now...
Thoughts?
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Last Reply:
RE: Big Marine
By: ,
Apr 3 2009, 5:37 AM EDT
"have you done it since the ground got even lower and you have to jump for starting holds?" Well it was my first time there so I cannot comment on ground level changes. I didn't know what the problem was called or if what I did was a recorded problem as I had no guidebook :-( I was so impressed though that I trawled the web for such a guide and here i am. The thing i did started with a jump to a decent edge, slighly below and right of a poorer edge (which i did not use) then went up and left into a big pocket (not as good as it looks - weird to hold for me) with a smaller pocket just up and right. From there there is a left gaston to jugs. I looked on the topo here and thought it might be Big Marine ? Apologies if it's not! Also there was a decent problem some way left that started on two crimps and slapped onto a big but sloping ledge that has a wee crimp on its lip then finish up the wall on jugs. Not sure if it's a bona fide problem but i rather liked it. Ta in advance for the info
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Longridge Graded List
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Discussion Forum
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Mar 29 2009, 12:35 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Mar 29 2009, 12:35 PM EDT
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V12 Super Submarine
V11 Pot Of gold
V11 Submarine (Now ground is tad lower, surely bumps it up to V11?)
V9 Colon Power
V9 Renal Failure (This should be V9, was never V8)
V9 Vickers Eliminate
V8 Big Marine
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andi_e |
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various problems and grades
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Grow Wings V?
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Dec 28 2008, 11:33 AM EST by
andi_e |
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Thread started: Dec 28 2008, 11:33 AM EST
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this has a sit-start (7a+)? A normal start (7a) and a high start (6b). The normal start is a tricky move off the poor crimps at face height, and the high start starts by reaching to the good crimp above one's head
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ArranD |
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Low Life.
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Low Life Traverse V8
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Aug 4 2008, 5:54 PM EDT by
ArranD |
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Thread started: Jul 27 2008, 5:27 AM EDT
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Hey Sean, is this the official name for this trav'? I just put it in as 'new traverse'. I thought the individual halves were V4/5 with the whole thing being V6? Has anyone done the full trav' and finished along this? Definitely 8c?
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Last Reply:
RE: Low Life.
By: ArranD,
Aug 4 2008, 5:54 PM EDT
I've put it down as V5 for the new section (under Descent of Man), the first bit is Unnatural Selection which is now easier (V4?) as the lower ground level has revealed a lot of new footholds. I've split the difference and given the link V7 (though I still think it's only V6).
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Seven-A
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Seven A V3
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Jul 23 2008, 4:46 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Jun 7 2008, 3:36 PM EDT
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Always described as a move undercutting the slot, it can be done just as easily by using the slot as a crimp. More pleasant and no more difficult.
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Last Reply:
RE: Seven-A
By: ,
Jul 23 2008, 4:46 AM EDT
"very small only 5ft and finding it difficilt to reach the normal holds for a person my size" Which starting holds do you mean? The one Sam uses in the Vid is less than 6' from the floor so you can reach this. From here I go straight to the next ledge but you can use an intermediate on the right.
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AndyF |
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Where does this start?
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The Gauntlet V5
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Jul 1 2008, 6:47 PM EDT by
ArranD |
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Thread started: May 16 2008, 8:39 AM EDT
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Does this start hanging on the two slopers down and left of the BM starting crimps (about 1.5m left)? There is a problem which starts hanging on the two slopers (the way I did it was from an egyptian in the wide groove), goes up Lh to crimp, Rh to lower crimp and then up R via long move to good jug. felt more like V7/7a+ this way.
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kiss the razors edge traverse
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Discussion Forum
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Jun 18 2008, 10:33 AM EDT by
ArranD |
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Thread started: May 18 2008, 2:12 PM EDT
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now as im relatively new to this longridge, i had a go on this problem today, but not traversing it, i climbed it direct ... so wot grade would this be approx ?
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Last Reply:
RE: kiss the razors edge traverse
By: ArranD,
Jun 18 2008, 10:33 AM EDT
Kiss the Razor's Edge starts at Stoning a Leper (13), so if you climbed straight up from the start you did that, at V0.
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ArranD |
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Grade?
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Smeg City V2
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May 25 2008, 10:26 AM EDT by
ArranD |
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Thread started: May 25 2008, 10:26 AM EDT
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Did this today with SeanG. We both had to jump to the diagonal sloper with the left hand and then bounce up the crimp and slopes with the left hand, felt about V6.
The standing start is still to go, unless anyone knows different.
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ArranD |
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Like a Slug
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Like A Slug But Sucks V5
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May 22 2008, 5:21 PM EDT by
ArranD |
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Thread started: May 22 2008, 5:21 PM EDT
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More like V2?
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central icefall direct.
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Discussion Forum
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May 19 2008, 11:45 AM EDT by
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Thread started: May 18 2008, 1:07 PM EDT
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only my second time visit to longridge, and had a go at this problem,, was using the juggy aretes but does it matter if you are to the right of this or left.. havent gone off route at all but found it easier going up from the left ...anyway got half way each time then flew off... lol
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Last Reply:
RE: central icefall direct.
By: ,
May 19 2008, 11:45 AM EDT
ok thanks but me being only 5ft small i find coming at it from the left is better for me,...im such a short arse you see,, !!!! teehee
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craig y whach are the finishing holds?
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Discussion Forum
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May 19 2008, 7:05 AM EDT by
ArranD |
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Thread started: May 19 2008, 6:54 AM EDT
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Went done to Craig y on Saturday, ok conditions until it started to rain!
When can you say you've ticked a problem? Do most of them finish at the obvious breaks or are there obvious rules i.e. finish at the top then drop off, top out, finish at the jug etc?
it doesn't seem to be cut and dry, as the level of the breaks change etc..
any tips from those with the knowledge appreciated! ;-)
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Last Reply:
RE: craig y whach are the finishing holds?
By: ArranD,
May 19 2008, 7:05 AM EDT
Most things finish at the obvious juggy break that seperates the good rock from the choss. Some stuff is possible to top out around Tarot Plane, and routes like Timothy's Route you only get the tick if you top out.
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